When I left Gmail a couple of years ago, I switched to https://posteo.de and have been extremely happy so far. They are very serious about security and privacy (you can pay anonymously by sending cash in an envelope) but they are also open about their limitations. They are for example not offering Protonmail-style "end-to-end encryption" because that is essentally security theater (since the email provider controls the code that implements e2e, they can basically do anything they want). Based in Germany.